Our fall frosts always sneak up on us. It still feels like summer now, but autumn is right around the corner. If you’re like us, when Jack Frost comes knocking, your garden will still be full of green tomatoes. Thankfully, it is possible to ripen many of these tomatoes indoors. 

What Happens If My Tomatoes Get Frosted?

Unfortunately, tomatoes are highly frost-sensitive. If you get a good frost, your plants will wilt, and the fruit will darken and turn mushy. Watching the weather for frost is critical. 

Harvest all your tomatoes before frost threatens and bring them indoors for sorting. Those that are ripe or almost ripe are ready for quick use. The green tomatoes will need to be stored, ripened, or processed. 

Will My Green Tomatoes Ripen?

Many of the green tomatoes on your plants will ripen if picked and stored properly indoors. For tomatoes to ripen, look for those that are at their mature size and light green. It’s tough to tell, but compare them to other tomatoes on the plant and those you have previously harvested.

Tomatoes that have already reached the breaker or blushing stage with tinges of pink or yellow on the bottom, are also perfect for ripening indoors.  

Picking green tomatoes is a great way to have fresh tomatoes further into the autumn. Did you know that there are storage tomatoes bred specifically for this purpose? Storage tomatoes produce fruit that reliably ripens off the vine. Typically, we plant storage tomatoes one to two months after the main tomato crop, timing the harvest for fall.

Storage tomatoes aren’t quite as tasty as a summer tomato fresh from the vine, but they are far better than their grocery store counterparts.

How to Store and Ripen Green Tomatoes

To ripen green tomatoes, begin with unblemished fruit. Store the fruit somewhere cool so that none of it is touching, and it’s out of direct sunlight. We’ve found that old apple boxes with their fruit dividers are great for this. Some folks also have luck with wrapping them individually in newspaper.

Never refrigerate your tomatoes.

Check your tomatoes at least once a week to look for ripening and remove any bad ones that have begun to rot. Turning tomatoes often can also help them ripen more evenly. 

How to Speed Up Ripening

If you have a lot of tomatoes, you probably want to ripen them slowly over time, but if you need some tomatoes to ripen quickly, there are a couple of steps you can take. First, move your tomatoes somewhere warm, like your kitchen. They ripen well between 68°F and 77°F (20°C to 25°C).

The second thing you can do is take advantage of the tomato’s natural ethylene gas. Tomatoes produce ethylene gas as they ripen, and the gas speeds up the process. Large growers typically harvest under-ripe tomatoes and will ripen them when needed by exposing them to ethylene gas so that they’re red when they hit the grocery store shelves.

You can increase the ethylene gas around your tomatoes by placing them in a paper bag or lidded cardboard box. Just remember to check them regularly. 

What Do I Do With Immature Green Tomatoes?

Dark green tomatoes that haven’t reached their mature size won’t ripen well indoors. For these tomatoes, we recommend using them green or preserving them. You can make fried green tomatoes, chow chow, pickles, and more. Find our five favorite ways to preserve and use green tomatoes.

You’ve probably seen social media posts asking gardeners to avoid raking leaves or tidying their gardens to protect beneficial insects, and they are true. Removing plant material can destroy the shelter and food sources for many of our garden visitors, but it’s also important to strike a balance. Tidying can help reduce disease issues and prepare your garden for next spring. Here’s how you can give your garden a fall tidy while still protecting songbirds, pollinators, fireflies, and other wildlife.

Leave the Leaves

You’ve probably heard it, and it is important. Fall leaves are a key habitat for beneficial insects and add organic matter to the soil as they break down. 

If you want to remove the leaves from your lawn, consider just moving them into the garden, around perennials, or on garden pathways. There they can still provide some habitat and act as a mulch. They’ll protect beneficial insects in the garden, insulate the soil, and add nutrients and organic matter to the soil as they slowly decay.  

Leaves also make excellent additions to the compost pile.

Reduce Your Mowing

Leaving your grass a little long in the fall can also help wildlife. The pupae of some fireflies, butterflies, and moths will overwinter in the soil beneath a nice thick thatch of long grass. If you want fireflies to light up the lawn next spring, leave it long this fall!

You can discontinue mowing a bit early or set the mower to its highest setting for the final cut. It’s good for your lawn too! Leaving grass a bit longer helps protect the soil and can create a healthier, lusher lawn next season.

Leave Flower Stems

It may not look tidy, but dead stalks bring their own beauty to the winter garden. Flowers like sunflowers, Joe-Pye weed, goldenrod, tithonia, rudbeckia (black-eyed Susans), and marigolds will all attract seed-eating songbirds to your winter garden. Leaving the stalks will also help them self-sow and spread. Songbirds are messy eaters! They will drop some seeds as they eat and spread others through their droppings. Think of it as low-effort seed-bombing.

The stalks also provide a winter safe-haven for pollinators and other beneficial insects. Butterflies may pupate hanging from dense clumps of plant material. Small native bees like leaf-cutter bees, mason bees, and carpenter bees will also overwinter in hollow flower stems. 

However, not all perennial flowers thrive without cutting back. If you notice pest or disease issues throughout the summer or have flowers like peonies, bearded irises, or bee balm that are prone to fungal issues like powdery mildew, you should still trim them in the autumn.

Remove Vegetable Crop Material

We also recommend that you remove all vegetable crop material. Old squash and cucumber vines can harbor diseases like powdery mildew, tomatoes carry diseases like late blight, and asparagus stalks can harbor asparagus beetles. We like to burn any diseased or pest-ridden vegetable material before winter to help mitigate these issues. 

Doing a final round of weeding can also help you get a head start on spring. Many cool-weather weeds germinate in the fall, stay small all winter, and then take off in the spring right when you’re trying to get crops into the ground. 

Sow Cover Crops or Add Mulch

Don’t leave your soil bare. After removing vegetable crops and weeds, you want to place a protective covering over the soil for winter. This will insulate the soil, protect against erosion, and provide critical habitat for beneficial insects and fungi.

Fall-planted cover crops are great for this. You can sow nitrogen fixers like clover and Austrian winter peas, daikon radishes to help bust hardpan and loosen the soil, or winter wheat or rye to help build up organic matter. 

If you don’t have the time or energy to plant a cover crop, mulch is a suitable alternative. You can cover the soil with leaves, grass clippings, straw, wood chips, or other natural materials that will break down over the winter.

Fall Plant Native Flowers & Perennials

Once you have a tidy garden, you can also do some fall planting for wildlife. We carry a few flowers suitable for fall planting.

One of our favorite native plant and seed organizations, Prairie Moon Nursery, offers a wide selection of native plants for fall planting that ship in September and October, like wild leeks (ramps), rose milkweed, false indigo, Culver’s root,  and common ironweed that are perfect for attracting and supporting wildlife. They also offer native seeds and seed mixes depending on your needs.

You can also fall plant native trees and shrubs. The Arbor Day Foundation is a great place to get affordable native species like eastern redbud, eastern red cedar, hackberry, and American elder. 

Growing a mix of native plants that offer a range of heights, textures, fruit, flowers, and growth styles will provide habitat for songbirds, pollinators, and other wildlife for years to come. 

In the Southeast, it’s tough to grow cold-loving, heat-sensitive crops like spinach during the spring. Too quickly, the spring showers give way to summer heat and humidity, and the spinach bolts. Thankfully, we can enjoy spinach right through the winter with a bit of care. These tips will help you grow winter spinach like a pro.

Why Grow Winter Spinach?

Spinach grown in frosty weather has the largest and sweetest leaves. Plus, winter-grown spinach is low maintenance. Once it’s established, you won’t have much to do besides occasionally harvest.

Spinach Varieties for Winter Production

Most true spinach varieties are pretty cold hardy, and we carry a few that are suited to winter production.

• Abundant Bloomsdale Spinach
• Beaujolais Spinach
• Long Standing Bloomsdale Spinach
• Viroflay Spinach (Monstrueux de Viroflay)
• Winter Bloomsdale Spinach

Longstanding and Winter Bloomsdale are both great options for overwintering even in cooler climates, withstanding winter lows down to 0°F.

When to Start Winter Spinach

High summer temperatures can prevent germination or kill young spinach seedlings, so in the southeast it’s often ideal to wait a month before you’re first expected frost. 

That said, in cool or mountainous areas, you want to make sure the plants are well established before winter lows halt their growth. When the day length reaches 10 hours per day or fewer, growth is significantly reduced.

How to Start Winter Spinach

Especially in the Southeast, getting winter spinach started in the late summer or fall while temperatures are still hot can be a major challenge. To ensure good germination and seedling growth, you need to keep the soil as cool as possible.

Irrigate often to keep the soil cool and moist. Irrigating with cool water will bring down the soil temperature. It will further decrease as moisture evaporates and draws heat from the soil.

When irrigating frequently, be careful not to make the soil soggy and monitor closely for signs of dampening off. 

If your spinach is in an open bed in fall, sow seed 2-3 times as thick to help the spinach survive grasshoppers.

Maintaining Spinach Through Winter

While some spinach varieties can tolerate temperatures down to 0°F and even getting snowed on, it is best to give them a bit of protection if possible. You can overwinter spinach in a cold frame, low tunnel, or high tunnel.

In the mountains or more northern areas, you can use a combination to help protect spinach more. Plant spinach in a high tunnel, then as the temperatures drop, cover it with frost cloth or low tunnels. 

While growth will slow and eventually halt in the fall or winter, you can still harvest some spinach leaves in the winter. As the day length increases again in February, you will see growth resume. Overwintered spinach makes for an excellent early crop in spring. 

In warmer temperatures, remember to remove or vent your coverings to ensure the spinach doesn’t get too hot.